
The Marché du President Wilson (street market on Pres. Wilson Ave.) is a jovial group of passionate food artisans cooking and selling their goods, bundled together beneath a long row of adjoining tents. It’s like finding the entire city’s best products, but in one conveniently confined location -- a tour-ette of epicurean delights. Tack on a 3-hour/9-course lunch at l’Astrance, and this food walk evolves into the ultimate food lover’s mini-tour.
The 16e arrondissement is known for its posh real estate -- stately apartments, tree-lined streets, concentration of museums, and exceptional views of the Eiffel Tower from across the Seine -- so, it’s cool that a stretch down the center of one of its regal neighborhoods has the vivacious atmosphere of the marché. Not to imply the street market is bourgeoisie in such an area, like peasants peddling in the king’s courtyard -- these are true artisans with hand-crafted cheeses, beautiful pâtés, and heirloom produce. Plus, great food is high priority in France, and the creators highly regarded.
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The market begins just west of the l’Alma metro station on Avenue du President Wilson. Inside the tent, booths line both walls, running the entire length, leaving a narrow walkway down the center. There are displays of exotic seafood, frog legs and brightly colored fish. Giant rotisseries spin dozens of chickens dripping juices onto potatoes strategically roasting underneath. And then there's booth after booth of every cheese imaginable, plus a few more. The charcuterie is stunning -- handmade sausages, salumi, and various pâtés and terrines. Wild game, freshly shot and feathers still attached, is offered near an impressive array of prepped birds, including the rare black chickens. In the autumn months, wild mushrooms are foraged and brought to the market -- giant cepes, porcini and Paris buttons. There’s fresh pasta, fresh breads, fresh eggs; cured olives, dried fruits, whole nuts; pickled things, crafty things, snack things. There’s even a master galette-maker working four griddles at once! Dim sum, sandwiches, salads and wine -- all make a take-away lunch simple & tasty. The three-foot paella pan is filled to the brim with saffron-colored rice studded with seafood and vegetables. It’s marvelous! What’s more, the booth keepers are very friendly -- proud of their products and delighted to share their knowledge & have their photo taken. Not sure if I was mesmerized by the food or the joyful energy at le marché, but while inside, I don’t remember seeing or hearing anything from the outside world. It’s really quite hypnotic.
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